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BARS AND CLUBS

Review: The Greenwich bar: A cocktail in the nick of time

Bratislava serves a tasty pint. Often under poured, but never in a mean spirited sort of way, a half litre of Slovak soup can be counted on in times of need. Similarly, one need not worry about rolling the dice when searching for the belly fire induced by Slovak liquor. But a cocktail in Bratislava is a maiden of an altogether different nature. She is a fickle beast, a moody creature, often dishevelled and inappropriately dressed for the sultry surroundings the cocktail crowd requires. As a consequence, it was with great interest that I entered the Greenwich Time Café and Cocktail Bar. Still mesmerised by the correct spelling of the word cocktail on the front door I sat alongside the after-work suits giddy with anticipation.


The extensive cocktail menu is also presented in English.
photo: Ján Svrček

Greenwich Time Cafe and Cocktail Bar.

Where: Zelená 10,
Tel: 02-54431852
Open: 10:00 to 01.30am, Mon to Sat, Sun 10:00
to 24:00
Rating: 7 out of 10

BRATISLAVA serves a tasty pint. Often under poured, but never in a mean spirited sort of way, a half litre of Slovak soup can be counted on in times of need. Similarly, one need not worry about rolling the dice when searching for the belly fire induced by Slovak liquor. But a cocktail in Bratislava is a maiden of an altogether different nature. She is a fickle beast, a moody creature, often dishevelled and inappropriately dressed for the sultry surroundings the cocktail crowd requires. As a consequence, it was with great interest that I entered the Greenwich Time Café and Cocktail Bar. Still mesmerised by the correct spelling of the word cocktail on the front door I sat alongside the after-work suits giddy with anticipation.

The interior is tastefully decorated. Dim lighting, pleasant shades, candles and spacious seating create a comfortable atmosphere. Accommodating the suits without alienating everyone else, and effort has clearly been made to foster a warm, inviting environment. The music, quite sadly, is rather generic. Instrumental versions of such timeless classics as Careless Whisper by George Michael may quench your thirst much quicker than any cocktail could. The service is up to par and the menu, strictly cocktails and caffeine, is extensive.


The café sits down a side-street just off the Main Square.
photo: Ján Svrček

I started with a dry martini (70Sk). This classic is an appropriate and fair first test for a bar claiming to specialise in such a sensitive art. Despite the clean, impressive bar and the prim and proper professional attire of the bartender I waited cautiously with a certain uneasy flutter in my belly. Flashbacks filled my mind with horror. In Bratislava, I have received anything from straight vermouth and black olives with a shot of gin on the side to a whiskey sour so I was somewhat apprehensive. Alas, the bleeding continues. The green olives were a solid start. But unfortunately, I cannot say much for a dry martini that flows like a water and supports three large ice cubes. Inappropriate use of a shaker is inexcusable, as is a martini that doesn't tangle a bit with your throat on the way down.

As you can imagine I was frazzled and felt reckless. Throwing all caution to the wind I decided on a şcomfortable screw against the wall with a kissş (109Sk). A smooth, surprisingly fruity mix that includes gin, southern comfort and vodka topped with a slice of pineapple and a maraschino cherry. An uncommonly sizey affair in the world of cocktails that seemed to lack a little bite considering the contents but proved an altogether pleasant experience.

Finally, the cappuccino was absolutely stellar. It was creamy, frothy, strong without overpowering and had just the right pinch of cinnamon. No complaints whatsoever outside of the somewhat gaudy price of 45Sk. But when sipping a delicate, successful cappuccino while chatting in luxurious confines in the heart of the old town one tends not to complain. For those with spare cash to indulge, Greenwich may prove to be just the right retreat.

(Bratislava In Your Pocket is your city guide for Bratislava. For up-to-date reviews of more than 150 restaurants and cafés, entertainment, hotels, health and shopping pick up the latest issue of Bratislava In Your Pocket at local news-stands or go to www.inyourpocket.com)

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