Address: Corner Košická and Mlynské Nivy
Hours: Every day, 10:00 - 22:30
Prices: Sk Sk Sk
English menu: No
Credit Cards: Master Card, Amex
Recommended: Go for the spicy turkey breast.
The proletarian environs of Bratislava's main bus station are better known their derelict textile factories than fine dining, but Elýzium Restaurant is a glittering exception.
Located near the junction of Košická and Mlynské nivy Streets, Elýzium is modestly tucked away at the back of a parking lot, announcing itself with a minimum of pomp. Once inside, don't be put off by the tuxedoed waiters and the posh dining room, for this is one of the few restaurants in Bratislava that offers impeccable service and immaculate table settings at a reasonable price.
The food is very good, a mixture of German and international cuisine with an emphasis on grilled dishes. My colleague and I tried the French onion soup and the garlic soup, both of which were light but robust. Pepper steak and a grilled spicy turkey breast followed, the latter thick and painted with a fiery baste, the former meltingly tender but unnervingly bloody. That seems to be the norm in Slovakia - if you don't specify how you want your steak cooked, you end up with the by-product of a chainsaw massacre.
But it was the service that made the deepest impression. Attentive, courteous and multilingual, the waitstaff turn a good meal into a profoundly relaxing experience. Cutlery, crockery and glassware are spotless, and whisked away with silent efficiency. I ended up returning to Elýzium twice in the same week, and managed to sample the trout, the salad bar and the cordon bleu ('Gordon Bleu') turkey. Excellent, every dish, and the quality of the service never faltered.
Given that the average price of a starter, main course and a glass of wine is 250 Sk, this restaurant will have a loyal following in short order.
9. Apr 1998 at 0:00 | Tom Nicholson