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OUR PICK

Kolónia Motorest is worth the drive

Forty kilometers from Bratislava towards Komárno, this wonderful restaurant rewards those willing to drive the distance to this tiny village with some of the very best food in Slovakia. The Kolónia, which seats 60, was almost full when we arrived on a Saturday evening, and remained full, with each table rapidly filling with new diners as soon as vacated. A warm, friendly atmosphere greeted us, as people were clearly enjoying their dinners, sometimes singing along with the music of the accomplished violinist who plays Friday and Saturday.
At Kolónia their unusual menu, a photo album of pictures of the meals with a description and price, makes it easy to see what each meal looks like - but it does not make the choice easy.

Address:Michal na Ostrove
Tel.: 0709/933-79
Hours: Sun - Th 10:00-22:00, F - Sat, 10:00 - 02:00
Cuisine:Hungarian and Slovak
Prices:Sk Sk
Reservations:Recommended on Friday and Saturday
English menu: Yes (also Hungarian, German)
Credit Cards: No
Recommended: Very Highly


Forty kilometers from Bratislava towards Komárno, this wonderful restaurant rewards those willing to drive the distance to this tiny village with some of the very best food in Slovakia. The Kolónia, which seats 60, was almost full when we arrived on a Saturday evening, and remained full, with each table rapidly filling with new diners as soon as vacated. A warm, friendly atmosphere greeted us, as people were clearly enjoying their dinners, sometimes singing along with the music of the accomplished violinist who plays Friday and Saturday.

At Kolónia their unusual menu, a photo album of pictures of the meals with a description and price, makes it easy to see what each meal looks like - but it does not make the choice easy. A wide variety of dishes are offered, including goose, pork and chicken liver. Making a choice was difficult, as the turkey roll Kisalfoldi looked scrumptious (89 Sk) as did the roast goose liver (135 Sk) and the tenderloin rings Carneval (96 Sk). I settled on tenderloin cutlets prepared with chicken livers and mushrooms (102 Sk) while my companion chose game delicacies with potato pancakes (88 Sk). The most expensive item is a meat dish, Misa Kolónia, at 139 Sk and the frugal diner can be satisfied with the Cikóš Tokan (Cikóš Stew) at 55 Sk, or tripe at even less.

I also tried the Új házy slepačia polievka (chicken soup - 20 Sk) and was rewarded by the best chicken soup I have ever had - thick with noodles and chicken, the broth was rich, with a beautiful aromatic bouquet and would certainly cure almost any ailment - do not pass it up. Our entrées were wonderful, very ample and cooked to perfection. The chicken livers and mushrooms added just the right flavor to my tenderloin. My companion's game was cooked with onions, mushrooms and also some chicken livers, and was just spicy enough to be interesting but not distracting. The potato pancakes were perfect. Although not on the menu, the Kolónia does offer salads, and we had mixed salads (25 Sk) that were fresh and ample. I also sampled a wonderful Veltlín wine, a perfect accompaniment to the chicken livers in my meals. I topped off my dinner with a wonderful Šomlovské rezy (trifle - 22 Sk) that melted in my mouth. The whole meal, less apéritifs, was 402 Sk, certainly a bargain.

The tables were each set with fresh flowers and the larger ones were also candlelit, giving Kolónia a warm, cozy atmosphere. The décor is simple and somewhat eclectic, but does not intrude on the ambience and is comfortable. For a warm summer night, there is also dining outside on a patio.

To get to Kolónia, turn off to the north at their sign (about four kilometers past the Benzinol station on the road to Komárno, about 30 kilometers from Bratislava) and follow the road to the restaurant - you'll spot all the cars parked in front before you see the sign.

Paul Zendzian and Madeline Vadkerty are the authors of Bon Appetit, Dobrú Chuť, Bratislava!, which is available at select bookstores and news stands.

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