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FOOD

Restaurant reviews

A NEW addition to Bratislava old town's dining scene, Gazdovský dvor offers all the dishes one would expect in a traditional Hungarian restaurant.
Among the soups (halászlé), the typical Hungarian fish soup is a must-try. It has just the right amount of paprika and is served in a very original way; in a small kettle with a candle to keep the soup warm. The garlic soup, served in a hollowed-out loaf of bread, is creamy and full of flavour. Among the satisfying array of fish and meat dishes are zander in a creamy mushroom sauce and chicken fried in almonds and drizzled with a cherry sauce.
The service at Gazdovský dvor is friendly and forward, but perhaps lacking in professionalism. For example, the waiter should not ask for the customer's credit card without first showing the customer the bill, and if a restaurant serves bread and pate before the meal and charges its customers a cover for it, the food should be left on the table for as long as the customer wants.

Gazdovský dvor

Where: Hotel Perugia, Zelená 5 /
Tel: 02/5443-1818
Open: Mon-Sun 7:00-23:00
English menu: Yes
Reservations: Yes
Rating: 7 out of 10

A NEW addition to Bratislava old town's dining scene, Gazdovský dvor offers all the dishes one would expect in a traditional Hungarian restaurant.

Among the soups (halászlé), the typical Hungarian fish soup is a must-try. It has just the right amount of paprika and is served in a very original way; in a small kettle with a candle to keep the soup warm. The garlic soup, served in a hollowed-out loaf of bread, is creamy and full of flavour. Among the satisfying array of fish and meat dishes are zander in a creamy mushroom sauce and chicken fried in almonds and drizzled with a cherry sauce.

The service at Gazdovský dvor is friendly and forward, but perhaps lacking in professionalism. For example, the waiter should not ask for the customer's credit card without first showing the customer the bill, and if a restaurant serves bread and pate before the meal and charges its customers a cover for it, the food should be left on the table for as long as the customer wants.



Corrida de Toros Restaurant

Where: Laurinská 7 /
Tel: 02/5443-5741 or 0903/288-818 /
Open: Mon-Thu and Sun 9:00-24:00, Fri-Sat 9:00-3:00
English menu: Yes
Reservations: Yes
Rating: 7 out of 10

WITH ITS large store-like front windows, its outdoor seating in the capital's pedestrian zone, and the loud music which plays at disco volume all day long, Corrida gives the impression it is one of Bratislava's "see and be seen" places.

Nevertheless, the menu is pleasing, and the quality of food good. Impressive starters include gazpacho, with all the vegetables and bread crumbs presented in small side bowls, and almond soup, which is really a cold, creamy garlic soup with almonds and grapes. There are three different paellas on offer, and a variety of meat dishes. Andalusian ice cream makes a nice dessert, served with whipped cream and fruit. In addition, the menu offers a very satisfying range of wines and cocktails.



Domenico

Where: Námestie Ľudovíta Štúra 4 /
Tel: 02/5464-0167 /
Open: Mon-Sun 10:00-23:00 (food served until 22:00)
English menu: Yes
Reservations: Yes
Rating: 6 out of 10

DOMENICO originally a café, last year turned into a restaurant acclaimed for the variety of the food it offers. The chef has put together an original menu with such tempting options as chicken with young carrots and Dijon mustard sauce, vegetarian risotto with nuts, creamy salmon soup, chicken with mango dip, and vegetable casserole (nákyp).

The food might surprise, however, because standards are not consistent. Some of the main course dishes are not large enough to satisfy anyone even a little bit hungry, and others are simply not cooked through. For example, the potatoes with mushrooms and cheese we sampled were not left in the oven long enough for the ingredients to soften. In addition, the chef used canned mushroom and not fresh ones, which missed a golden opportunity to improve quality.

Nevertheless, this former café is now an inviting restaurant, with reasonable prices, friendly staff, and a menu aimed not just at people with sweet tooths.

- Saša Petrášová

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