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FOOD

Nonstop class

EVERYTHING about Ramazzotti says august glory. A dark red carpet, worn through in the centre, leads patrons upstairs past an out-of-use coat check and into a room with a high ceiling. Inside, dark wood complements the carpet and fancily cushioned chairs flank heavy tables. Far from being musty or stodgy, the restaurant creates an atmosphere at once luxurious and comfortable, which makes you feel like your days, or nights as we shall see, have been full and it's time for some well-earned relaxation.
During the day, Ramazzotti is frequented by a variety of customers, but the establishment's rush comes between 4:00 and 7:00 on Saturday and Sunday mornings, when all-night revellers pour in. After a long night, the beautiful party people, their flash and glitter dimmed by a night of smoke, sweat, and other unmentionable substances, weave their way to Povraznícka Street across from the YMCA.


POPULAR with night owls.
photo: Brian Jones

Pizzeria Ristorante Ramazzotti

Where: Povraznícka 81,
Tel: 02/5249-7751,
Open: 24 hours,
English menu: Yes,
Reservations: Yes,
Rating: 6 out of 10

EVERYTHING about Ramazzotti says august glory. A dark red carpet, worn through in the centre, leads patrons upstairs past an out-of-use coat check and into a room with a high ceiling. Inside, dark wood complements the carpet and fancily cushioned chairs flank heavy tables. Far from being musty or stodgy, the restaurant creates an atmosphere at once luxurious and comfortable, which makes you feel like your days, or nights as we shall see, have been full and it's time for some well-earned relaxation.

During the day, Ramazzotti is frequented by a variety of customers, but the establishment's rush comes between 4:00 and 7:00 on Saturday and Sunday mornings, when all-night revellers pour in. After a long night, the beautiful party people, their flash and glitter dimmed by a night of smoke, sweat, and other unmentionable substances, weave their way to Povraznícka Street across from the YMCA.

And the restaurant looks like a beautiful place to come down. The rich décor has decadent class, and the patient, friendly wait staff is well prepared for incoherent orders. In this context, even the paper napkins that accompany the place settings do not seem out of place. This peculiar clientele just might need a few of them when they spill their drinks or drop a bit of pasta during an intoxicated failure of motor control.

For those with a more private-party agenda, the restaurant also has non-stop delivery service.

The food itself is ordinary. The tomato and minestrone soups, at Sk40 each, were the tastiest part of our meal. They were followed by an unremarkable rigatoni a la Napoli (Sk100) and a tortellini a la Bolognese (Sk130) that my companion reported to be like "sloppy Joe pasta". In addition to pasta dishes, the soft leather-bound menu offers a choice of more than 20 pizzas.

The most exciting part of our meal was the bottle of Lambrusco Emilia (Sk280) chosen from the small wine list. This "lively, happy wine perfect for picnics and barbecues" added the pinch of hilarity to the evening that brought out the delightfully offset flavour of the restaurant. And I would have liked the meal less if the wine had been served chilled, as the bottle recommends, or if it had come with anything other than a paper napkin tucked about its neck.

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