Spectator on facebook

Spectator on facebook

RESTAURANT TRAILS

The real face of dining


Restaurant U Janusa
Where: Kláštorská 22, Levoča
When:Monday-Friday 10:00-20:00, Saturday and Sunday by reservation only
Reservations: Yes
English menu: Yes
Tel: 053/451-4592
Rating: 6 out of 10

RESTAURANT U Janusa, as the menu says, is a family restaurant. It is an apt description, one that hints at the restaurant's pleasures and pitfalls, and as the name Janus suggests, this family atmosphere has two faces.


ANXIOUSLY awaiting pirogies...
photo: Eric Smillie

Restaurant U Janusa

Where: Kláštorská 22, Levoča
When:Monday-Friday 10:00-20:00, Saturday and Sunday by reservation only
Reservations: Yes
English menu: Yes
Tel: 053/451-4592
Rating: 6 out of 10


RESTAURANT U Janusa, as the menu says, is a family restaurant. It is an apt description, one that hints at the restaurant's pleasures and pitfalls, and as the name Janus suggests, this family atmosphere has two faces.

A family runs U Janusa on the ground floor of their own home. The building, just a block off of Levoča's main square, dates back to the 17th century. To enter, one first passes through an interior hallway, then turns right to enter the interior proper, which speaks its age through a pleasant simplicity. There is little, if any, pretension in the square dining room or in the smaller adjacent bar. Both are painted in light colours and fitted with pleasant furniture; it is comfortable and homey while still letting you feel as if you were somewhere special.

Likewise, the quick service is hospitable and welcoming and the prices are modest; a main dish costs around Sk70 and a beer Sk28.


Homey, comfy, and modest.
photo: Eric Smillie

The restaurant's second face, however, first shows itself when you open the menu. Much like what you would find at home, the list of dishes available is short and does not go in for unusual combinations or cater to particular tastes. A few specialties include homemade sausages or fish halušky, which we left to the more adventurous diners. For the most part, though, visitors eat the standards that the house is capable of preparing and entrust taste to the cook.

The cook at U Janusa, unfortunately, is not perfect. A Slovak took their bryndzové halušky - potato dumplings in sheep cheese - to task and concluded that the dumplings were made from a powder mix rather than natural ingredients, and that the sauce was too heavy on sour cream and too light on bryndza cheese.

Tofu prepared in a natural style, on the other hand, proved one of the more successful solutions to this soybean food's problem with blandness. Thin slices were fried to a light crisp in spices and herbs, covering as much tofu with seasoning as possible. The downside is that these slices are too few, and even a side of potatoes does not make up the difference for a hungry stomach.

Such disappointments, however, are hard to keep in mind in such pleasant surroundings. After eating we headed to the bar and joked with a few Levoča natives. Back in the dining room a group of five women boisterously set to five plates of pirogies, their party radiating warmth and friendship. Going to the Janus' is a little like visiting someone whose taste does not match your own. The main reason for going is not the food but to see a friendly face.

Top stories

Wooden toothbrushes prompt small-scale industrial revival in Bratislava Photo

To begin with, young enthusiast Roman Kovács just wanted to change his local environment for the better, and to help people.

Roman Kovács wants to renew production of wooden toothbrushes in Bratislava.

Blog: HR Marketing: Not everybody can be Google!

It is important to know who your target audience is and the position you aspire to achieve as an employer on the market.

Illustrative stock photo

The idea of Slovakia

What does this country stand for? Slovaks could – and should – shout a little louder about what they have achieved, and where they want to go.

D1 highway, illutsrative stock photo

Amazon chose Slovakia for its top returns centre Photo

The online retainer lures its future workers by wages and benefits.