Tematín Castle (source: Facebook - Hrad Tematín)
Driving along the D1 motorway past Piešťany, near the exit for Lúka nad Váhom, the silhouette of a ruined castle emerges from the forests of the Považský Inovec mountains. This is Tematín – a fortress built around 1250 to guard the Kingdom of Hungary from Tatar invasions, offering commanding views of the Považie region and, on a clear day, as far as Trnava.
That it still stands at all is thanks to the efforts of volunteers from the civic association Hrad Tematín (Tematín Castle), who have been working to stabilise and conserve the site for more than 18 years, according to My Trnava.
Centuries of decay
The castle’s present shape dates to around 1700, when it belonged to the powerful Bercsényi family. Miklós Bercsényi, commander-in-chief of the rebel forces of Francis II Rákóczi, was forced to flee after the uprising was defeated. In 1710 imperial troops torched the castle to prevent its use by other insurgents. From then on, it was left to ruin, gradually reclaimed by nature over the following three centuries.
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Saving the “wailing wall”
The association’s goal is not reconstruction but preservation — and nearly half of the castle’s structures have already been stabilised. Among the most notable achievements is the rebuilding of the so-called “wailing wall”, 250 cubic metres of stone masonry forming the eastern fortification. The southern façade has also been completed, and volunteers are now tackling the more demanding eastern wall.
Over the past year, new windows have been fitted, flooring laid, and several rooms opened to visitors.
“Our core team has 16 members, and around 70 volunteers have taken part in this year’s work,” said Mojmír Choma of OZ Hrad Tematín. A two-week summer work camp brought students of archaeology, anthropology, architecture and conservation to the site, combining training with tangible progress on the restoration.
No blueprint to follow
One reason the group avoids rebuilding is simple: no images exist of Tematín before its destruction. The oldest depictions, from the late 19th century, show it already in ruins.
“Our work stops where guesswork would begin,” Choma explained.
Ongoing archaeological research is gradually revealing more of the site’s history. Recent digs unearthed ceramic fragments from the 17th century, likely from a storeroom in the bastion. Today that same space is used as a workshop base for storing tools and materials, keeping the inner courtyard clear for visitors.
Visiting the castle
Despite its remote location — perched 600 metres above sea level — Tematín is accessible on foot or by bike. The easiest route begins at the Bezovec ski resort, a 90-minute walk along a scenic ridge suitable for families. Cyclists can follow a regularly maintained trail starting in the village of Hrádok, also cared for by the volunteers.
