author
Chris Togneri

Spectacular Slovakia travel writer

List of author's articles, page 4

Michal Kravčík: Slovakia is drying up

Slovak environmentalist Michal Kravčík recently presented his "New Theory of Global Warming" at an environmental conference in Vancouver, British Columbia. His theory states that due to shifts in the earth's weather patterns and excessive industrial and urban development over the past 50 years, Slovakia, along with the rest of the world, is steadily losing its water supply."The industrialisation and urbanisation of Slovakia was begun after the end of World War II," Kravčík said. "Ecologically stabilising elements - such as bogs, spread-out green areas and groves of trees - were removed from the country's environmental structure. More than 500,000 hectares of agricultural land has since then been drained and more than 8,000 kilometres of [natural] watercourses have been canalised."As the country's natural surface has been gradually covered over with concrete, a process accelerated during Communism from 1948 to 1989, less water is able to penetrate the soil and join natural underground water reserves. Instead, water is increasingly falling on cement urban centres and in the more than 15,000 kilometres of concrete "water-catching drains" that have been constructed since 1950. The water then drains into rivers, where it is taken out of Slovakia and ultimately to the oceans.

Capital's medieval city gate unearthed

Rybárská brána (Fisherman's Gate), one of four original Bratislava town gates dating from the 14-15th centuries, is currently being unearthed on the Slovak capital's Hviezdoslavovo námestie (Hviezdoslav Square). City officials and archaeologists are calling it an important historical excavation.The archaeological dig is located between the National Opera House and the Spaghetti and Co. Restaurant at the north-east end of the square.The gate is being excavated by the Municipal Institute of Monument Preservation. The Institute studied the site in July to determine the future of the find, and whether the gate could be removed from its buried location or had to be presented on-site.

Culture Shock: Irritating Slovak DJs butchering songs

"They don't give a damn about any trumpet-playin' band," sings Mark Knopfler of Dire Straits in the group's classic 1978 song 'Sultans of Swing'. "It ain't what they call rock n' roll."It's an achingly beautiful song, crowned by Knopfler's elegant guitar solo, one so smooth it stands proudly and properly alongside other stirring riffs like Jimmy Page's 'Stairway to Heaven' solo, or the duelling jam featuring Joe Walsh at the end of 'Hotel California'.Listening to that final lyric on a Slovak radio station, I leaned back in my seat, closed my eyes and braced myself for the singular feeling of gratification only quality music can provide. But instead of the Knopfler solo, I heard Samantha Fox.

Expat begins long trek across Slovakia

TRNAVA - David McLean first got the idea of walking across Slovakia in 1993, when he was an English teacher in the northern Slovak city of Poprad. After constant planning and preparation, he found himself eight years later ready to begin his journey at Devín Castle, the site where Slovakia meets Austria, where the Morava River flows into the Danube, where in 1836 Slovak poet Ľudovít Štúr led a group of students to the ruin atop the rock promontory to announce the Slovak struggle for self-determination."It had to be Devín," he announces, the perfect beginning for a trek which he says is designed to explore every corner of the country, from the Hungarian south to the mountainous north and from the symbolic Devín ruin to the site in north-east Slovakia where Poland, Ukraine and Slovakia converge.

White Bike a 'moral test' for city dwellers

Bratislava Old Town was given its first biely bicykel ('white bike', a free, public-use bicycle) on July 18. The initiators of the experiment called it a test to determine whether a more expansive programme of free public transport, similar to those found in some western cities, could be developed in the Slovak capital.The idea behind the white bike scheme is to provide bicycles that any member of the public can use to get around, with the last user leaving the vehicle in a suitable condition and location for others to follow suit."In principle, this is like a public test of our morality," said Old Town spokesman Milan Vajda. "We'll see if we can have public bicycles without them being stolen. In Bratislava, and in Slovakia in general, if something is not locked up there is a high probability of it being stolen."

Banská Štiavnica: Uncovering a rich vein of mining history

One of the loveliest cities in Slovakia, Banská Štiavnica is also one of its most strikingly different. Situated on the slopes of the Glanzenberg and Paradayz hills, which were once rich with deposits of gold and silver, the town was erected on the steep hills as early as the 11th century, with construction forced to conform to the uneven landscape.The discovery of the precious metals encouraged rapid expansion. The mining centre was awarded with the official status of a town during the period when the first Borough Charters in the Hungarian Kingdom were granted by King Béla IV (1237-1238). The world's first technical university devoted to chemistry, physics and mineralogy was established here in 1762, and by 1783, Banská Štiavnica was the third largest city in the Hungarian Empire behind only Bratislava and Debrecen.

Čičmany: Embroidered Slovak culture

Tucked neatly into the forested hills of northern Slovakia's Strážovské vrchy mountains is Čičmany, the first town in the world to be declared a Reserve of Folk Architecture. A small village with less than 400 inhabitants, the mountain town is well-known for its wooden houses adorned with unique hand-painted designs.The history of the attractive embellishments is rooted in a need to be discreet. In the late 13th century, the Tartars were charging through Slovakia, forcing local villagers - including the Čič family, whence the town's name is derived - to seek sanctuary in the mountains. They found refuge in this remote mountain valley and, cut off from the rest of the world by its surrounding peaks, settled into a traditionally ethnic Slovak lifestyle, meaning that the women wove embroidery and clothes, and the men farmed the land and herded sheep and cows.Having become quite skilled at embroidering, the women eventually decided to decorate their wooden homes' exteriors with the same designs. Today, the symbols - including arrows, clovers, crosses, hearts and various animals - cover the mainly two-storey cottages.

Cheerleading gains Slovak momentum

Set in motion over 100 years ago, the influence of Johnny Campbell is rolling into Slovakia. According to a cheerleading study conducted by the University of Wisconson - River Falls, Campbell became the first man to ever leave the stands of a sporting event to lead a cheer in front of a crowd on November 2, 1898.Of course, cheering (which studies say was begun in the US) was born even earlier. In the late 1880's, a crowd at a Princeton University American football game shouted in unison: "Ray, Ray, Ray! TIGER, TIGER, SIS, SIS, SIS! BOOM, BOOM, BOOM! Aaaaah! PRINCETON, PRINCETON, PRINCETON!" - the first recorded organised cheer.

Review: Slovak Pub: Redefining country's 'typical' bar scene

The heavy wooden stairs from Bratislava's Obchodná ulica (Shop street) lead up to a mock chapel, appropriate for a country in which over 60% of the inhabitants are Roman Catholic. Walking through the nave and entering the pub area, visitors find walls adorned with Slovak poetry and several framed paintings of famous national heroes.My companion and I seated ourselves near a table overlooking the street below and took our best guesses: that's the poet Pavol Országh Hviezdoslav; there's Anton Bernolák, who first attempted to codify the Slovak language in the 18th century; Ľudovíť Štúr, also pictured in the pub, was credited for successfully completing the feat soon after in the 19th century.

Malé Karpaty: Small mountain range big on natural beauty

Pining for a mountain getaway, yet shackled to Bratislava by the constraints of a light wallet, I trained my hiking sights on some tracks a bit closer to home, in the Malé Karpaty (Small Carpathians) mountain range. Often overlooked in favour of the country's more famous mountains, the relatively small range nevertheless provides beautiful (and convenient) hiking opportunities for capital city residents.Beginning just north-east of Bratislava, the range peaks at over 750 metres above sea level and extends some 70 kilometres to the forests south of Čachtice. Ruins of castles and churches, mountain meadows and forests of beech, oak, ash and maple await visitors. At lower elevations, small towns dot the sloping hillsides, and vineyards produce white wines for which local regions have become famous.

Review: Returns in even worse shape than before

After somehow making over $400 million world-wide on its first go-round, The Mummy is back. Apparently, asinine one-liners, predictable plots, horrendous acting and special effects no better than a hand-held Atari are a big draw among movie-goers.The film begins in the year 3067 BC with the Scorpion King (played by American pro-wrestler The Rock) leading his fearsome troops into bloody battle in the Egyptian desert. He is defeated and driven deep into the desert where on the verge of death he strikes a deal with Anubis, god of the dead, who lends Scorpion King his army of lightning-quick dogs. These giant dogs possess the uncanny ability to walk on their hind legs, thus freeing up their forelegs to bludgeon opponents with swords and axes.

Violence splits Roma tribes

PLAVECKÝ ŠTVRTOK: What began as a spat between two neighbourhood Roma children in western Slovakia's Plavecký Štvrtok has escalated into a crisis dividing the town's 700-strong Roma community. The conflict, lasting several weeks now, has left 31 residents injured, 22 people imprisoned and several Roma dwellings burnt to the ground.An attempt June 5 to bring the warring Roma factions together and end the violence dissolved in chaos with one clan leader defending threats by a Roma man to burn his children if a solution wasn't found. Town leaders and police expressed dismay with the conflict, which they said they were powerless to solve until peace returned to the community.

Castles mounted to resist Ottoman Turks today in ruins

Built on an outcrop of volcanic rock and lowering over the village below, south-central Slovakia's Fiľakovo Castle seems an intimidating and invincible fortress. But looks are evidently deceiving - in 1554, when 10,000 invading Turkish troops laid siege to it, the citadel fell quickly into Turkish hands, and remained there for the next 39 years.To ward off the expansionist Ottoman Empire, several castles were erected in the late middle ages on modern-day Slovak soil. During the 16th and 17th centuries, troops of the Hungarian Empire struggled constantly against the aggressive intruders; wherever they failed, towns conquered by the enemy had their buildings burned, their valuables looted, their men-folk killed and women raped.Today, ruins are all that remain of that long-ago Slovak Maginot line - the castles were built atop hills within sight of each other to signal approaching enemies. Nevertheless, tours of these historic sites take visitors on an imaginative journey back to another era, when bloody battles were waged for decades on the central European plain.

Police begin sensitivity training

A team of American law enforcement experts began a visit to Slovakia at the end of May with the aim of helping the Slovak police deal better with the country's minority groups. Having long been criticised by minority leaders and international observers for their apparent apathy to problems affecting non-ethnic Slovaks, the police hope that the training will allow them to better understand - and therefore better serve - those they are expected to protect.Over the next two years, the American team (consisting of three ex-police officers and a sociologist) will hold six week-long seminars with national police chiefs in Bratislava, Banská Bystrica, Košice and Prešov. Funded by the US State Department's Bureau of International Narcotics and Law Enforcement, the initiative stresses the philosophy of "community partnership", which aims at developing 'bridges' between the police and minority communities at the grassroots level.

Afoot in the Tatras

On a recent spring day in the Vysoké Tatry (the High Tatras), I had planned to travel along the electric rail line which connects the major Tatra resort town of Štrbské Pleso in the west to Tatranská Lomnica in the east.But sitting in Štrbské Pleso, with the sun shining and the temperature touching 20 degrees, I did what any right-minded visitor to Slovakia's magnificent mountains would do: I hiked.Although the two towns are connected by rail, they are more satisfyingly linked by foot. For those seeking a challenging day-long hike, the trail between the two can be navigated in less than eight hours (not including breaks).

Review: Buddha Bar: Zen and the art of tea-drinking

Walking past bright murals in the entry hallway, I descend down carpeted stairs. At the bottom await a low-hanging arched brick roof, air dimly lit with a rainbow of colours, and a placid pitbull terrier who seems to be smiling at me.I sit down and read the two menus, one covering the gamut of bar drinks from wine and whiskey to beer and borovička, the other exclusively for teas. Zuzana, my waitress who has sparkles on her face and is wearing a T-shirt reading 'Rump Shaker', sits down across from me, lights the candle on my table and asks what I would like to drink. "Body & Soul", I respond. She smiles and nods knowingly, then floats across the room to prepare my order.Welcome to one of Bratislava's newest - and finest - night spots: Buddha Bar. Located on the fringes of the Old Town, the bar was opened in February by a group of close friends who had studied hotel management together. Aiming to create a relaxed "living room culture" which would also reflect their spirituality (Zuzana is a believer in reincarnation), they have created an establishment noteworthy for its friendly and sedate atmosphere.

A brief history of western Slovakia's Bojnice castle

For many Slovaks, Bojnice castle is the cream of the country's castle crop. That's no accident, says castle festival organiser Jozef Mikuláš Pálffy: although the communists neglected many monuments and historical sites as a matter of doctrine, Bojnice was actually used by top communists as a weekend getaway and private conference centre. As a result, Bojnice glittered while other castles crumbled."Whenever a travel guide is made about Slovakia," says the castle's marketing director Sylvia Maliariková proudly, "they use a picture of Bojnice for the cover."

Tourists throng as ghosts defend Bojnice castle from aliens

Arguably the country's most stunning castle, central Slovakia's Bojnice zámok is adored by Slovaks and foreigners alike. Indeed, it's so popular that a band of aliens from the Sorios 5 star system have concocted a conniving scheme to beam the castle up to their home planet."You know, I really dig this place," says alien C3M (known in his human form as Rado Star). "So I want to bring it back to my home planet. I'm greedy that way."But his greed is abandoned when an unlikely love affair develops between the alien and Kontesa, a lovely and gentle-spirited ghost.

"Belgium has to react" to fleeing Roma

Two weeks after most European Union (EU) countries dropped visa requirements for travelling Slovaks, Belgium announced that it would re-impose the travel restrictions "as soon as possible". Slovak Interior Minister Ladislav Pittner said that 99 Slovak Roma had applied for asylum in Belgium since the visas were dropped April 10."The number of asylum seekers increased immediately," said Belgian government representative Johan Vande Lanotta April 24 for the Slovak daily paper Pravda. "It's obvious that the increase has been caused by the fact that the visas were discontinued. Every time we have dropped visas [for Slovakia] the numbers of asylum seekers has increased.

Rusko reveals line-up of ANO party

Pavol Rusko, the owner of the country's most popular TV station, Markíza, on April 22 introduced the new faces and name of his party, putting an end to weeks of speculation as to what form his entry into politics would take.The name of Rusko's new party, he announced at a press conference in Bratislava, will be the New Alliance of Citizens, or ANO (meaning 'yes').ANO's line-up includes former Markíza journalists, a current member of parliament, prominent athletes, an academic involved in Project Infovek (a scheme to link schools to the Internet), a spa director, and a nuclear physicist.Rusko described his party as right-centrist with free-market values. The new leaders of ANO said that Rusko, by surrounding himself with a largely apolitical group, had created a party structure which would serve "the future of Slovakia", rather than just the interests of one of the most powerful men in the country, as analysts have warned.

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