Hikers in the Priečne Sedlo saddle. (source: Matúš Beňo)
I had been looking forward to hiking the Priečne Sedlo saddle since last September. After two difficult back-to-back hikes in the High Tatras - the Kôprovský Štít and Východná Vysoká peaks - I had started to believe I could do what is touted as the most difficult trail accessible without a guide in the Slovak part of this mountain range.
Tatras travel guide: A fresh take on the stunning soul of Slovakia. CLICK TO BUY ONE. (source: Spectacular Slovakia)
I had booked travel and accommodation between September 15 and 20. But then came the forecast of extreme rain (this would turn into the multi-day Storm Boris that lashed most of central Europe in mid September). Although the forecast for the Tatras wasn't as bad on the weekdays, it changed constantly, with the prospect of storms, rain and worse. When you want to scale a wall of rock you don't want that rock to be wet. I decided to cancel my bookings.
Now imagine my frustration when, on Tuesday, I checked the weather and the forecast showed that, in the wake of the storm, it would be sunny in the mountains for the rest of the week. Unfortunately, since I had trouble finding a place to stay at a reasonable price, I began to resign myself to not making it this year. I mulled travelling by train from Bratislava early on Saturday morning, but that would have left me with very little time.
In the end, I called my cousin and asked if I could crash for a single night, so I could hit the trail early the next day. My cousin agreed, much to my joy.
Get ready
Here's the gist. The loop trail to Priečne Sedlo and back is approximately 22 kilometres, with an elevation gain of 1,600 metres. It mostly follows an uneven, rocky path that constantly rises and falls. There is a very long exposed section – meaning a high risk of injury, as any false step could result in a serious fall – secured with chains and iron stemples, which includes a very steep, rocky slope.
Better safe than sorry
As always, before you start hiking, it is strongly recommended to check weather reports and warnings issued by the Mountain Rescue Service via its website, especially in winter.
In addition, install and set up the service's app on your phone before you set out – and, of course, don't forget to fully charge your phone. Also, make sure you have mountain insurance.
For more information about who to call if you are injured or get lost in the mountains, click here. Always remember the mountain rescue phone number: 18300.
Some previous experience in high mountains definitely comes in handy. Also, hiking gloves and a helmet might not go amiss if you have them.
If want to hike the trail, you really want to wait for good weather, as climbing on wet rock or in strong winds is always dangerous. Moreover, it is not rare for people to underestimate the trail and find themselves stranded, too tired or afraid to continue.
Priečne Sedlo can be hiked in one day – it took me a little over nine hours – but it you want to be at full strength, you can book a stay in either the Téryho Chata or Zbojnícka Chata mountain huts that are on the trail. That way you can spend a night at either hut and set out in the morning fresh and with plenty of time.
The starting point is usually Starý Smokovec, with the path continuing via the resort of Hrebienok. You can take a funicular on this section that will shave around 30 or more minutes off the journey time, depending on your pace. This section offers little in terms of vistas, so you won't lose much.
Lemmings in the valley
Once you're at Hrebienok, you have a decision to make. You can get to Priečne Sedlo from two directions, either from Zbojnícka Chata or Téryho Chata. I chose the latter because I don't like climbing down steep sections secured with chains. On the other hand, the former might be a little easier as the gain in altitude towards the saddle is more spread out across the trail – but then you will have to climb down the exposed section.
Although it added a few minutes, I still followed the green markers to the nearby Vodopády Studeného Potoka waterfalls. Even though I visit them every time I'm in the High Tatras, I still cannot get enough. There is just something to watching the water flowing down the rocks with such intensity and power.
