Viktor Beránek doing dishes at Chata pod Rysmi. (source: Jana Liptáková)
“I can’t now, people are pouring in,” Viktor Beránek, 72, the long-time keeper of one of the High Tatras’ most famous mountain huts, replied when I asked him for an interview. He was busy scrubbing a large pot. “I have to wait for Martinka to make the beds upstairs before she can replace me in the kitchen.”
But if I wanted to hurry things up, he hinted, I could go and help her. I didn’t hesitate, and half an hour later I was sitting in the kitchen of Chata pod Rysmi, the highest (at 2,250m) mountain chalet in Slovakia, with the legendary – he doesn’t like the word, but he’s earned it – chalet-keeper. We talked about the work of mountain porters, chalet-keeping, how tourists have changed, whether they miss Wi-Fi or electricity at the hut, and whether he is training a successor.
In this interview you will read:
How the hut celebrated its 90th anniversary
Whether there are enough people interested in working at the hut
Whether women porters also carry supplies to the chalet
What messages he wants to convey to visitors to the mountains
How was your hike up to the chalet today? It was windy all night, it’s still blowing, and there’s a thick fog outside.
Tatras travel guide: A fresh take on the stunning soul of Slovakia. (source: Spectacular Slovakia)
Normal. I started out last night because we were discussing preparation for the Sherpa Rally, a competition for mountain carriers (horskí nosiči, also known as porters or sherpas). Since it was already late, I didn’t take any supplies to carry up to the chalet. I spent the night at the Žabie Plesá mountain lakes. The night was good, it wasn’t blowing down there. Only I didn’t have a flashlight, so I used the light from my mobile phone. That’s what a mobile phone is good for.
You yourself initiated this competition years ago, in 1985, as a spontaneous idea and a one-off event that became a tradition.
Yeah. But that was so long ago, it’s not even true any more. This year will be its 39th edition. It will be held on October 22. It will start at Popradské Pleso lake and lead to the Chata pod Rysmi mountain hut.
Chata pod Rysmi mountain hut
Located in the Mengusovská valley at an altitude of 2,250 metres above sea level
It was built in 1933
It has undergone several reconstructions during its history. The biggest one came after it was hit by an avalanche in 2000, which largely destroyed it.
The restored chalet has been in use since September 25, 2013. The hut now has a more solid construction, with sloping walls on the side where avalanches fall. If an avalanche strikes, it is designed to fly over the hut as if it were a ski jump.
The hut has a legendarily panoramic latrine.
This year was the 90th anniversary of Chata pod Rysmi. How did you celebrate it?
In a simple and unique way, in a retro style. I came in a suit that I bought at the last minute at a second-hand store, along with a big suitcase and sticks for the blind. A music band came, they played just like in the old days. The music up here is magical because we don’t have a TV or radio, we don’t receive any signal up here.
There is no mobile signal or Wi-Fi at the hut.
