Branč to the beach: Slovakia’s unexpected south-west

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Senica (18 photos)

In a quiet pocket of western Slovakia, history, nature and leisure converge in ways both sobering and serene.

The Senica district offers more than just scenic views — it promises a journey through time and terrain. Cyclists, water sports enthusiasts, golfers and lovers of historical monuments and churches will all find something to enjoy here.

Travellers can begin their route with a bicycle ride along the Morava River. Near the village of Moravský Svätý Ján, a bridge leads into neighbouring Austria and the village of Hohenau.

Along the way, remnants of Czechoslovakia’s turbulent past come into view. Military bunkers, built to defend the country from German expansionism before the Second World War, stand as silent witnesses to a failed defence. Later, this border zone became part of the Iron Curtain — this time said to shield Slovaks from Western imperialism.

The Chapel of Our Lady of Lourdes in Borský Svätý Jur (source: SME/Jozef Ryník)

Continuing along the Morava River, visitors pass through the village of Borský Svätý Jur, where the Chapel of Our Lady of Lourdes stands. Built at the end of the 19th century by local residents Juraj Holý and Juliana Hušková, the chapel features a distinctive blue façade and is easily visible from the main road.

On the way towards Senica, a stop in the town of Šaštín-Stráže offers the chance to see another important religious monument: the Basilica of Our Lady of Sorrows. Constructed in the first half of the 18th century, this grand church is closely linked to the veneration of the statue of Our Lady of Sorrows and draws tens of thousands of pilgrims each year.

The town is also home to a mid-19th-century Jewish synagogue, which currently stands neglected and in need of restoration.

Smrdáky Spa specialises in the treatment of skin conditions. (source: SME/Jozef Ryník)

Smrdáky offers healing waters

Taking a short detour from the main road to the district town can prove rewarding. One notable stop is the spa in Smrdáky, a village that shares its name with the therapeutic retreat. The spa is known for its unique mineral water, rich in hydrogen sulphide, which has proven effective in the treatment of various skin conditions. The strong odour of the water — owing to its high sulphur content — is also the origin of the village’s name. In addition to the water, the local sulphuric mud is celebrated for its healing properties.

The spa is operated by the international company Ensana, which also manages a well-known facility in Piešťany. Nearby, a large park offers a peaceful space for relaxation. However, some of the spa buildings are in a state of disrepair and would benefit from further investment to restore them to their former splendour.

Just beyond Smrdáky lies the village of Rybky, where visitors should take a moment to admire the Millennium Cross. Standing 27 metres tall, this striking monument was erected to mark the 2000th anniversary of the birth of Jesus Christ. Positioned on flat terrain, the cross commands attention with its imposing presence.

The water mill was restored by local volunteers. (source: SME/Jozef Ryník)

The water mill in Čáčov serves as a museum

In the town of Senica, a visit to the local museum — housed in a beautifully restored manor house — is well worth the time. Alongside its permanent archaeological and historical displays, the museum frequently hosts temporary exhibitions.

While Senica itself has few remaining historical monuments, the old water mill in the nearby village of Čáčov, now a part of the town, offers a fascinating glimpse into the past. A group of dedicated enthusiasts restored the mill in 2011, preserving a valuable piece of local heritage.

The Slovak Spectator visited the site following a recommendation from a historian at the Senica Museum. The mill, a three-storey brick structure, contains well-preserved and functional milling equipment. Inside, visitors can view a collection of historical photographs, including images of the last owner and miller, Pavel Škodáček.

Spread across all three floors, the exhibition showcases traditional milling techniques and recounts the history of the Škodáček family, who operated the mill until it was nationalised by the state in 1960. After that, it no longer produced flour but was used to process grain for cattle feed.

The Škodáček family regained ownership following the fall of the communist regime but did not resume flour milling. The current owner, Peter Pivák, later acquired the property and undertook a full renovation, transforming the site into a museum.

A highlight of the visit is the extension dedicated to Senica ceramics. In the courtyard, a large barn serves as a venue for community events. While the museum does not have regular opening hours, visitors can arrange a tour by calling ahead.

The sandy beach at Kunovská Dam looks like something out of a far-off holiday destination. (source: SME/Jozef Ryník)

Castles and beaches with a Caribbean feel

For castle enthusiasts, the village of Podbranč is a must-visit, as it is home to the picturesque ruins of Branč Castle. The site is accessible via a path from the car park near the cemetery. The ascent is gentle, with the hill offering an easy climb.

On your way back, consider stopping in the nearby town of Sobotište, where the beautifully restored Habánsky Mill awaits. The mill also houses a small museum dedicated to the Habáns, a historic religious group that once lived in the area.

For those in search of a swim with a tropical twist, Kunovská Dam offers a sandy beach that evokes the atmosphere of a Caribbean getaway. The site also features a charming observation tower with views over the reservoir.

And for lovers of sand and desert landscapes, the Šranecké Piesky protected area is not to be missed. Its natural sand dunes create a scene reminiscent of the Sahara. Do note, however, that access is restricted to weekends only, as the area lies within a military zone.