In a socialist town with a Warhol museum, they dream of Parisian vibes

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Medzilaborce (23 photos)

When travelling from Humenné to Medzilaborce, you can't miss the impressive ruins of the former monastery in the village of Krásny Brod. Adjacent to it is a newer monastery and a functional chapel. Behind the ruins, you will find a military cemetery dedicated to those who died in the First World War. This northeastern region of Slovakia relies on its sacral and military monuments to attract tourists, but there is more to discover here.

Medzilaborce was an important railway junction during the First World War, serving as a transportation hub for soldiers heading to the Galician Front, near the Polish border. In 1915, it was briefly occupied by the Russians, resulting in heavy casualties on both sides. The area contains five military cemeteries, which are hidden behind concrete fences, in the forest, or near regular cemeteries. Locating some of them can be a challenge.

The city also had a significant Jewish community, which was tragically destroyed during the Second World War. Outside the city, there is a large Jewish cemetery, though it is poorly marked and accessible only via field and forest paths.

The Director of the Warhol museum, Martin Cubjak, aims to connect art with the town. (source: SME-Jozef Ryník)

Museum with a rooftop amphitheatre

In addition to the cemeteries in the district town, visitors can also explore local churches, notably an Orthodox temple. Located on a hill near the town centre, its golden dome gleams in the hot summer sun.

However, this spiritual landmark will soon be overshadowed by another building currently under reconstruction near the main road. The museum named after Andy Warhol, an acclaimed pop art artist from the USA with roots in the nearby village of Miková, will focus on modern art.

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I am meeting with the museum's director, Martin Cubjak, in front of the building. He arrives by bicycle, and we proceed to the construction site. The former cultural centre from the socialist era is being transformed beyond recognition. The interior is open, with the individual exhibition rooms set to be interconnected. Cubjak also points out the black boxes on the roof, which will be used for various educational activities for children, as well as for art students who will have the opportunity to participate in creative internships or workshops.

Cubjak describes the vision of transforming the town into a hub of pop art, highlighting that students could potentially live at the museum temporarily, engage in city life, and work on projects for the town, such as urban furniture or design.

The rooftop, which is already adorned with walkable greenery, will also feature a small amphitheatre that can serve as an open-air cinema or host band performances.

As we explore the interior of the museum, we can see the rooms that will be converted into storage areas, offices, and, most importantly, more modern exhibition spaces. The museum's renovation will primarily focus on interactivity, incorporating new lighting, sound, and holographic elements. The revamped museum aims to showcase Warhol's diverse artistic talents.

"We will have a versatile, multi-genre, and interactive space. Furthermore, the building will feature seamless connectivity between the interior and exterior, facilitated by the walkable roof and façade," explains Cubjak as we walk along the steel grilles attached to the museum's façade. These grilles can also serve as a viewing terrace, but only for those unafraid of heights.

Andy Warhol is visible everywhere in Medzilaborce. (source: SME-Jozef Ryník)

Museum to open next summer

The Prešov Region, which is responsible for the project, still needs to secure funding for technology. It is estimated that approximately €2.4 million will be required. The costs for the reconstruction have exceeded the original budget, rising from around €7 million to over €12 million.

Originally, only an emergency restoration of the building was planned, addressing issues like a leaking roof, inadequate toilets, and the absence of an elevator for disabled individuals. However, the director lobbied for a full-scale reconstruction with both the government and the regional authorities.

The project began in April 2023 and was expected to take 18 months.

It is now clear that this timeline may not be feasible. Cubjak believes that the construction could realistically be completed by the end of the year, but the exhibit might only open just before the summer season next year.

A Slovak Montmartre?

Medzilaborce is not a town renowned for its historical monuments. The city centre mainly features buildings from the socialist era and churches. Its primary attraction is the Andy Warhol Museum of Modern Art.

"Before the museum closed, we had over 12,000 visitors during the summer season, and on some days we had to regulate entry," Cubjak recalls. Annual attendance was around 25,000. After it reopens, he estimates that visitor numbers may double. He is concerned about whether the town will be able to handle such an influx of tourists.

"We don't want visitors to spend just two hours at the museum, spend €100, and then leave. We aim for them to contribute to the local economy as well," the director explains, revealing plans to integrate the museum with the town.

According to him, the town and its surroundings have the potential to attract tourists for longer stays. The plan is to encourage locals to open small cafés and shops, creating an atmosphere akin to Montmartre in Paris.

The mayor of Medzilaborce, Vladislav Višňovský, is optimistic about the potential for new tourism and gastronomy businesses. He notes that new accommodation and dining establishments are emerging in villages like Habura, Čabiny, and Palota. Currently, these areas only have small family-run guesthouses.

At present, Medzilaborce has just two hotels, which are inadequate for accommodating large numbers of tourists. The town also has a limited number of restaurants. However, references to Andy Warhol are widespread. Signposts, portraits of Warhol, and even guesthouses and an art hotel named after the artist are noticeable. Yet, these references are sporadic and do not fully convey the essence of Warhol's work and legacy.

Here's the revised version: Rastislav Slivka and his partner, Dominika Varcholová, manage the Driečna guest house. (source: SME-Jozef Ryník)

How a farmer built a guest house

Rastislav Slivka's family is from Driečna, a part of Vladiča village in the Stropkov district. He began his career as a farmer, primarily focusing on raising cattle and sheep. However, over a decade ago, he decided to diversify his business by establishing a guesthouse.

Due to the challenges he faced, such as his sheep being killed by wolves, he realised that he needed a more stable business than cattle breeding.

In the serene village of Driečna, Slivka decided to construct a log cabin, deviating from local tradition. Instead of renovating the old house, he chose to build a new one to accommodate his plans for a larger guesthouse. The current capacity of the pension is 22 beds, with plans for further expansion.

Half of the construction costs were covered by European funds, while the remaining expenses came from Slivka's personal savings. Despite the EU financial support, he criticises the bureaucratic processes involved in accessing these funds.

Dominika Varcholová, Slivka's partner who helps manage the guest house, notes that accommodation options in this area are limited, which allows them to cater to a diverse range of guests. The guest house particularly welcomes families with children who appreciate nature and tranquillity.

In front of the log cabin, there is a children's playground, and behind it, a small covered gymnasium is nearing completion. In addition to families, the guest house also attracts sports clubs, schools, and companies for team-building activities, leading to the addition of a wellness centre on the premises.

Operating year-round is crucial for this business. While summers are busy, they also serve companies during the quieter spring and autumn months. Additionally, there is a small ski lift behind the guesthouse, allowing for ski courses in the winter.

Romania has already overtaken us

"Cyclists from Poland also visit us, while we can go and learn how tourism is developing over there," remarks Slivka.

In Poland, state support for local tourism works much better than in Slovakia. "A Pole comes up with an idea to expand a guest house and receives the funds very quickly. We have to fight for projects from European funds, and even then, we often get nothing because we don't fit into certain schemes. Projects are often meaningless," Slivka says, describing his own experience.

"Visit the Solina reservoir in Poland and see how life is there. You'd feel as if you were on a beach promenade in Croatia," adds Varcholová. There are souvenir shops, restaurants, and many people into the evening.

"Poles have the heart of entrepreneurs; they know how to turn ordinary stone into a tourist attraction. We lack that skill, even though we have our own tourist gems," she reflects. On the other hand, she admits that Poles also come to Slovakia for a quieter holiday away from mass tourism. Pension Driečna offers them this.

The owner of the guest house, who is also a motorcyclist, adds that Romanians have already surpassed Slovaks in tourism development. "They have built an incredible number of services in recent years," he notes.

War cementeries in Medzilaborce are hidden from tourists. (source: SME-Jozef Ryník)

Toothless cyclists

The deficiencies in Slovakia are evident in the maintenance of local roads. While some repairs have been made in recent years, there are still sections where the roads are riddled with potholes, making it difficult for even cyclists to pass through without risking a fall.

"If the roads were properly maintained, they would likely see more use, as heavy trucks rarely pass through here," adds Slivka. Additionally, the bicycle paths in the forest are often neglected and obstructed by overgrown trees.

In Driečná, entrepreneurs are planning to expand the restaurant's capacity to accommodate up to 120 people, enabling it to host weddings and celebrations. They also intend to add small cottages to the guest house and expand the children's amusement park.

Despite employing ten people, the entrepreneurs are still facing a shortage of manpower. "People tend to leave this region rather than arrive, and not everyone is willing to work," concludes Slivka. The owners themselves work in the guest house and can only take short breaks during the winter.

Manager of Vermex Lokal restaurant Erik Ducár relies on local clients in Svidník. (source: SME-Jozef Ryník)

Local food business

Visitors observing military equipment can visit a local restaurant called Vernex Lokal. The restaurant features a modern design with wood, industrial lamps, and stylish furniture, which is unexpected for a small town in northeastern Slovakia.

The family business is managed by Erik Ducár, whose father Ladislav started it in the early 1990s. They began with a grocery shop, food wholesale and later expanded into the gastro business, now owning several establishments in Svidník and nearby Stropkov, including restaurants, cafes, wine bars, and tattoo studios. The business now employs 50 people.

Ducár's sister, Veronika, an artist who provides graphics for their companies, oversees the tattoo studios.

The restaurant in the city centre serves typical pub fare such as wings and hamburgers, as well as risotto and pasta.

The lack of cooperation

The manager described the clientele as mainly locals with some tourists, especially hikers on the SNP (Slovak National Uprising) trail. Svidník is a popular stop on a tourist route in Slovakia due to its military history, even attracting foreign tourists.

The number of Polish tourists visiting the town and local water park has declined in recent years. The manager thinks the Poles have better facilities and services. Moreover, he highlights the lack of cooperation among services in the tourism industry in Slovakia.

Ducár mentions that visitors typically stay for the weekend, leading the company to consider offering apartments in the future instead of building a guest house or hotel. He emphasises the need for improved marketing and more diverse services to attract a wider range of tourists beyond those interested in military history.

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