Although the weather was not exactly photo-friendly on this particular hike, it was still good to be out there in the mountains. (source: Matúš Beňo)
"Is this the right place?" I asked myself, as I looked around and tried to recall an image I had filed away during my last hike here last September – and to reconcile it with what I now saw before me. What I find especially intriguing about places I like is how they can change between seasons, and especially compared to winter.
Tatras travel guide: A fresh take on the stunning soul of Slovakia. (source: Spectacular Slovakia)
Back in September, this part of the Veľká Studená Dolina valley had been green and lit in warm light from the sun. I had followed a stone path, crossed the Veľký Studený Potok stream via a metal bridge... Now, everything was covered in snow, with next to no trace of the greenery, no sounds from the stream. And definitely no sign of the metal bridge.
Judging by how deep another hiker's foot had plunged into the snow, there must have been a metre of snow piled up. I pulled out my phone, scrolled through my pictures from last September and found one in particular to compare it with the scenery that I witnessed now.
Yes, this was the exact spot, I told myself, captivated by the changed appearance of the valley.
Get ready
While most of the hiking trails in the High Tatras are closed during the winter season, a handful remain open year-round. These include several-hour long hikes to mountain huts. On this particular February Monday, my destination was the Zbojnícka Chata hut, also known as Zbojnička.
Better safe than sorry
As always, before you start hiking, it is strongly recommended to check weather reports and warnings issued by the Mountain Rescue Service via its website, especially in winter.
In addition, install and set up the service's app on your phone before you set out – and, of course, don't forget to fully charge your phone. Also, make sure you have mountain insurance.
For more information about who to call if you are injured or get lost in the mountains, click here. Always remember the mountain rescue phone number: 18300.
Located at the far end of Veľká Studená Dolina (Great Cold Valley) at an altitude of 1,960 metres, the hike from Starý Smokovec to the hut and back will take you about six to seven hours in winter. You can shave off maybe an hour or more by taking the funicular to Hrebienok, which saves you some of the approach walk. With the exception of some glimpses of the peaks of Slavkovský Štít and Gerlachovský Štít, this first section offers next to no vistas, so you won't lose much by taking the shortcut.
Aside from its length, the hike is not overly difficult. At the beginning expect a rather long section with little elevation gain, followed by two steeper sections, one more relatively flat section, and a final ascent to the hut. In winter, either crampons or micro-spikes are great equipment to have. Neither are essential – I've seen hikers without either make it to the hut – but they will certainly make the steeper sections easier and safer to navigate. Trekking poles can help to reduce fatigue as well.
Although it's very easy to navigate in general, in the winter season the latter parts of the trail are marked with tall snow poles marking an alternative route, as the summer trail is impassable.
As always, do not forget to wear good boots and warm clothes, and take a spare base layer in your backpack.
First, to the waterfalls
As mentioned earlier, you can start either in Starý Smokovec by following the green markers from the funicular building – or hop on the funicular itself to get directly to the resort at Hrebienok.
Years ago I hiked this particular trail. There was so much snow that I put on my crampons right behind the building and, apart from taking them off to enter Zbojnička, I had them on the whole way to the hut and back. As I was returning, and with just a few metres to go to the funicular building, I decided to remove them, thinking 'What could go wrong so close to Starý Smokovec?' My next step sent me crashing to the ground.
